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  • Writer's pictureCarmen Lopez-Fernandez

Design with me: Fabric & patternmaking

Choosing your fabric and drafting your patterns are very crucial steps. Don't stress too much about it though because if I could do it you definitely can. Here is basically exactly what I did.


First, you have to pick and buy your fabric. If you read my other blogs you know that you should basically have somewhat of an idea of what you looking for. You could also already know exactly what you want. I wanted to make statement pants, kind of like the ones you might see all over Pinterest, so I looked for bold(ish) fabric patterns. Joann Fabrics is the classic go-to fabric store for beginners. Surprise that's where I bought my fabrics. The good thing about Joann Fabrics is that it's not too expensive. Personally, I do not have any local fabric stores but I recommend that if you do you go check those stores out first. Buying online is a lot riskier because you don't get to see and feel the fabrics in person until you buy them.


TIP: When you go to local fabric stores ask to see the remnants pile of fabric which is the remaining fabrics from other cuts. They are usually a lot cheaper.


When buying fabrics keep in mind what you are planning on making. Along with the decorative outer fabric, also think about buying lining fabric and possibly interfacing. Even if you don't end up using lining or interfacing in that specific project they are still staples that will keep your pieces looking professional in the future.


What's Lining fabric?

Lining fabric an inner layer of fabric for garments. Lining provides a neat and professional look to your pieces. It can make garments less see-through as well as hide "unprofessional" construction details.

What is Interfacing? I'm not gonna lie to you, I also just recently learned what interfacing is. Interfacing is a textile used to make areas of your garment more rigid. It is used on the hidden "wrong side" of the fabric.


TIP: You do not NEED to go out and buy your own fabric. Depending on your project it is possible to upcycle old clothing you have. Use a seam ripper to undo any seams and get a nice sheet of fabric:)


Okay, you've picked your fabric! YAY! Now you have to figure out how much you need. Google is your best friend for this. Type in "How many yards of fabric do I need to make (the garment type your making) in size (your size)?" This should give you an idea of how much fabric to buy, but if you're really unsure it's better safe than sorry.

Done with fabrics moving on to pattern making.

Technically you don't have to be as extra as I was and make your own pattern. There are so many places online that sell patterns for pretty cheap. Either way pattern making is kinda an important skill if you really want to get into the design and construction of your own pieces. You can make patterns out of different types of material. If you're looking to be able to construct a "draft" of you're design think about buying muslin or specific sewing paper. I bought sewing paper from Amazon and I love it. That's not necessary though. You can use large sheets of paper, wrapping paper, newspaper, etc.



As I stated earlier, I am focusing on making the pants of my design first. Making the patterns for pants is not too complicated, super easy actually. You take whatever pattern paper you've decided on using, lay it on a flat surface. Then take a pair of pants you already own and that fits you well, bonus if they are the style of pants you want to recreate. You fold your pants in half and pull out the crotch area. Then you place your folded pants on top of the pattern paper. Outline the pants adding 2 inches of the seam allowance to the top and bottom and 1/2 an inch to the sides. Cut it out and your pant pattern is done!

But if you are a super beginner (like me) and want to make sure whatever you cut out actually fits it's a little bit of a different process, but it will make sure that your pants fit you 100% right. Take your folded pants, same as the other step, this time fold your pattern paper ( I recommend muslin or sewing paper for this one) in half and place the side of your pants on the fold. Outline and cut the pattern with the same seam allowance but this time you will have one pant leg. Do the same thing again, so you have 2 pant legs. Then sew from the crotch to the ankle on both pant legs. You can also sew the backside but it's not completely necessary. Try on the pant legs and if they fit perfectly then your pattern is done. If they don't make any adjustments necessary. This is just an extra step to make sure your final project is done super well.

We have gotten so far! We kind of got into construction but the next step is actually making the garments!


xoxo,

Carmen (your 16-year-old fashion design teacher)


Originally published on August 18th, 2020

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